Meeting a girl in Bordeaux, falling in love and deviating from the expected life course is a familiar story to Mosaique Wines, and to Michel Théron of Clos du Jaugueyron. Theron saw Bordeaux as a place of education, heading there from his family’s estate in Languedoc Roussillon (Minervois) to study winemaking in 1988. The plan was to get his degree and head back to Minervois armed with knowledge, and eventually take over the family business. However, the universe had different ideas, bringing Bordelaise Stephanie Destruhaut into Michel’s orbit, and of course, the rest is (modern wine) history. Making things vine-official, the pair produced their first wine in 1994 from a small parcel they bought in 1993. It was to be the first of many vintages to follow.
Fast forward to today and you’ll find Michel and Stephanie heading up the 8ha of vines known as Clos du Jaugueyron, happily ensconced in Arsac, at the south-west edge of the Margaux appellation. By Théron’s own admission, there’s not a lot going on in that part of the world - isolated and out of the way somewhat. And that’s exactly how he likes it, after all, for someone farming organically it’s an advantage to be further from neighbours who may not share the same farming approach as you. Having said that, wine lovers will know the region to be dotted with Margaux’s classified growths, so it’s not all bad terroir to share!
Michel and Stephanie are firm believers in organic/biodynamic viticulture, converting officially with the 2008 vintage and gaining Demeter certification. Natural farming and sustainability is a way of life for them in their day to day, carrying through from the vineyards to the winery and beyond. The vineyards planted with Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot are plowed, and do not see a synthetic product. Instead careful attention is paid to the vineyard ecosystem, striving for balance naturally and letting the clay/gravel/quartz terroir of Arsac, and the deep fine gravels and sandy soil of Macau impart their goodness on the vines.
When vintage rolls around, grapes are hand harvested and transported to the winery where they are vinified in concrete tanks using natural yeast fermentation and a minimal amount of sulphur. The wine is then transferred to barriques or foudre for 12 months and no filtration upon bottling.
It all sounds so simple. And in many respects it is - grow the best grapes you can, don’t add too much or do too much. The magic, however, is in the soils and the care given to the ecosystem surrounding the vines. The team at Clos du Jaugueyron are proponents of the approach to outstanding results - Margaux reminiscence of simpler times, finessed and pure, with an unmistakably contemporary feel that’s approachable now. Personally, we’re inspired by this Bordeaux love story. The fact it reminds us so much of a special time only adds to the immense joy these wines bring to the table.