Château Haut-Brion Cru-Classe Des Graves Pessac-Leognan 1996

The 1996 Haut-Brion, a blend of 50% Merlot, 39% Cabernet Sauvignon and 11% Cabernet Franc is clearly on a higher plane than the La Mission. There is something much more expansive and complete on the nose: greater depth of fruit, more harmonious with scents of underbrush, tar, and black olive, and this bottle is perhaps less "feral" than I have noticed in previous examples. The palate is very well balanced with dark cherries, sous-Bois, and cedar. This is one vintage where I think the Cabernet Franc plays an important role and lends more complexity. This is a 1996 that has retained and built upon beguiling fleshiness and it will continue to evolve with style and panache.