Domaine Leflaive Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru 2013

Here the nose is restrained to the point of being all but mute and only aggressive swirling coaxes the grudging aromas of pear, white peach, apricot, acacia blossom and discreet menthol nuances. As is usually the case there is more size, weight and muscle to the medium weight plus flavours that possess a hint of bitter lemon on the massively long finish. What I find interesting about the 2013 Bâtard is not only that it is more elegant than usual but also that it manages to deliver so much volume and power without any appreciable weight. In a word, brilliant.