The 2015 Brunello di Montalcino Vigna Paganelli Riserva from Il Poggione keeps you at the edge of your seat, with a gorgeous display of herbal-tinged black cherry, sweet white smoke, cedar and cloves. The textures are silky and polished, as this coasts effortlessly across a core of salty minerals and bright acids, taking on a decidedly savoury, umami note. There’s simply so much going on and so much to like about the 2015 Riserva, as a balsamic spice, hints of wild herbs and tobacco form up toward the close over a coating of classically fine tannin. Tasting the 2015 Riserva, you could easily forget that it hails from a ripe vintage. This needs five or more years to unwind and should then excel for well over a decade in our cellars.