Valmaggiore is a magical, three-hectare, amphitheatre-shaped vineyard in the Roero area of Piemonte. Now that Roero is rising in prominence, we can start to truly recognise what a pioneer Luciano Sandrone was in the region when he established Valmaggiore some 30 years ago. At this time nobody was talking about Roero (unless it was to disparage it), yet Sandrone recognised its potential, having worked with parcels of Roero fruit during his time as cellarmaster of Marchesi di Barolo. Sandrone worked tirelessly to identify a particular site, then to convince all the farmers on the slope to sell him their land, and finally, he had to convince the bank to fund his project. The risks were enormous; establishing an extremely steep vineyard (50% gradient in places), with such sandy soils (quick to dry out and erode) was always going to be a huge challenge, with no guarantee of quality. The land would also need to be terraced and replanted, requiring major investment. And all this in a place, outside of the Barolo region, that no one believed capable of greatness. Luciano Sandrone begged to differ.
The Luciano Sandrone 2021 Nebbiolo d'Alba Valmaggiore shows fun aromas with something that reminds me of honey granola or protein bar with a full load of dried blueberries and raspberry piled on top. The wine offers good primary fruit, substantial weight and lots of other interesting tones to flesh it out. Those range from spice to wet earth. I love the rich approach to the palate, which remains important, but it's also elegantly balanced in this wine.