The sea of Aussie Merlot is more like a pond, but this historic producer's version is one of its biggest fish. It's leafy (but not in an underripe way), with lively red berry and plum fruit, white pepper, savoury herbs and undergrowth. The palate delivers on the nose's promise, with a medium body, a nicely placed grip of spicy tannins, fresh fruit and those savoury herbal notes right to the finish. Chill slightly and pour with a pizza, porchetta, or bowl of pasta and tomato sauce. Drink now through 2029. Christina Pickard