Whole bunches (17%) wild fermented with 14 days on skins. A barrique snuck into the fray, with two rackings instead of one per Koomilya’s other cuvées. The tannins, a ferruginous torque almost reminiscent of southern Italy – impactful, wild and resolutely of place. A good place, with 47-year-old vines on grey, slaty siltstone. The sense of native scrub is strong. Briny olive pith. Biltong. Kirsch. The tannins scrape the mouth, like grazed knees as a kid and a smile still beaming. A brilliant wine.

To stutter, the tannin quality; wow. Immediately impressive, the cinch and pucker, the length of fine, weaving, silty tannins and the cool acidity that supports the glide and gloss of the wine. Dark cherry, ripe plums, some mocha and ferrous elements with dried herb, paperbark tree and salt bush characters in the mix. Bouquet and palate in accord on these descriptions. It’s concentrated but doesn’t feel heavy or cumbersome, the palate resetting with each sip with only latent spice and dried cherry characters lingering. It feels distinctly ‘Aussie red wine’ but upper tier. What a superb wine.