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A New Era in Barolo: Introducing Agricola Brandini
This is not your traditional Barolo maker. A modern winery with a young and dynamic team of winemakers, working in an organic manner, almost biodynamic.
15 July 2024
A New Approach to Winemaking
Wild yeasts, stainless steel ferments, shorter maceration periods, less time in oak. All of this is well and good, and the place should definitely be on your must-visit list when in Piedmont, but it would hardly matter if the wines did not impress. And they certainly do that. These are some of the most elegant wines in the region.
The Bagnasco Family Legacy
The Bagnasco family have established something special and while their father, Piero, is in overall control, his two daughters (Giovanna and Serena) run the day-to-day operations. Piero, at one stage, was the CEO of Fontanafredda and was a co-founder of Eataly, which held one of its meetings at Brandini, which at the time merely sold grapes and wine to negociants. It inspired a career change and a lot of work.
A Highlight in Piedmont: Meeting Giovanna Bagnasco
Our visit with Giovanna Bagnasco was a highlight, among many, in Piedmont. Giovanna’s American husband makes wine in the Napa Valley, where they met. At the time, that was pretty much all Giovanna told us, so it came a bit of surprise later when researching the estate to discover that Giovanna’s husband has a rather famous name – Mondavi. He is the grandson of the legendary Robert and son of Tim. Any kids will surely have wine in their veins, not blood.
The Bold Vision of Piero Bagnasco
Piero had been told that the estate was too high (at 570 metres, one of the highest in the region) for good Nebbiolo and also faced the Alps, apparently another reason it would not work. He went ahead and purchased the place in 2007. Climate change and improved techniques now make it look an inspired choice.
Embracing Organic Practices
Climate change is one of the reasons the sisters appreciate their father’s decision to work with organic procedures. While fruit sourced from outside the estate may not be certified, the family closely supervise all operations. The team keep a close eye on ensuring that each and every wine truly represents its terroir. Fortunately, their vineyards reflect some of the great sites in the region.
Innovative Use of Amphorae
One of the rules for certification is that if your neighbours are not also organic, then unless you have a natural barrier or are four metres from a road, the first four rows of grapes cannot be used. Here, they go into amphorae to make wine for the family.
Vineyards Across Prime Locations
The estate is 23 hectares, with nine hectares in La Morra the basis. They also have vineyards in Serralunga, Monforte and the Alta Langa. Most wine lovers are not yet familiar with the sparkling wines from the Alta Langa but they surely will be. These are serious efforts in every respect. Brandini also has vineyards in Roero to produce Arneis. Total production is around 180,000 bottles.
Stunning Wines and a Promising Future
The wines are quite stunning. A complex and vibrant sparkling, their Alta Langa is a blend of 85% Pinot Noir and 15% Chardonnay. Their Barbera d’Alba is fresh and elegant, the Langhe Nebbiolo wonderfully fragrant, and the range of 2018 Barolos well suited with the vintage offering elegance, in keeping with the style of winemaking. 2019 is quickly gaining a reputation of legendary proportions and will be highly sought after. As one critic suggested, 2019 will be one of the vintages of our lifetime. All the wines are definitely worthy of a place in your cellar.
Revolutionizing the Perception of Barolo
Anyone convinced that Barolo needs a couple of decades in your cellar to come around will find these wines a revelation, although there is no doubt that they will provide great drinking for many years to come.
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About The Author
Ken Gargett
15 July 2024Born and bred in Brisbane, Queensland. A non-trendy, perfectly happy childhood, in a family convinced alcohol meant instant condemnation to Hades. Law at Queensland Uni. On a break fishing on the Great Barrier Reef, someone opened a good bottle of port and so commenced a serious obsession. Studied in London, then worked London, Washington DC and Sydney in banking law (pleased to be out of that now, even if my bank manager disagrees). Returned to Queensland and was asked to do some occasional wine writing by friends who knew of the obsession. Eventually, fortunately, it took over.
Needless to say, I am a grave disappointment to my family. My mother once, when told I was off to a 'vertical tasting', was overheard muttering ‘at least you'd think these people could afford chairs’. Later, she severely chastised me, for drinking Pol champagne, disgusted I’d drink anything made by a Cambodian dictator. It has not been easy.
Now, I mostly write on wine and spirits for Drinks, Explore, AGT Wine Magazine, UK World of Fine Wine, Fine Group, tastingbook.com. Did weekly columns for the Courier Mail for many years, plus various mags, spitbucket.com, etc. I do a little on cigars (this blog, obviously, and quillandpad.com), fishing, travel and food. When not writing, I’ll either be fly-fishing, travelling, or passionately following a variety of too-often dismal sporting teams – Queensland Reds rugby, Washington Redskins, Arsenal and our occasionally glorious Aussie cricket team.
—KBG.
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