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Billecart-Salmon: A Timeless Legacy and Evolving Elegance
The famous and much-loved house of Billecart-Salmon is one of the last remaining larger houses in Champagne, still in family hands. It has a rich history, with the family having been in the region, at Mareuil-sur-Ay, since the sixteenth century, although the house was not founded until 1818 when Nicolas François Billecart married Elisabeth Salmon.
4 February 2024
A Long History
It is that same Nicolas François who is celebrated with their prestige cuvee, while Elisabeth is remembered by their superb prestige Rose, Cuvee Elisabeth Salmon. Elisabeth is a 50/50 blend of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, first made in the 1988 vintage. Nicolas François dates back to 1964, though it was apparently being made before that, just not under that name. It is a Pinot Noir dominant blend with Chardonnay.
Family, Strength and Endurance
Seventh generation, Mattieu Roland-Billecart, runs the operation, although tastings involves family members, and chefs de cave, from past and present. Florent Nys is the current chef de cave, taking over from François Domi in 2016.
The family had its ups and downs, not least in 1830 when their American agent caused the loss of the monumental sum at the time, or even today, of 100,000 golden francs. Economic disasters, phylloxera and WWI followed and the family sold all vineyards to stay afloat, but stay afloat they did, and gradually they built a stellar reputation for innovative champagnes of superb quality. They have been slowly building up their vineyard holdings in recent years.
The Science Behind Their Success
When one thinks of Billecart-Salmon champagnes, elegance is always at the forefront. The house is well known for its cold stabilisation techniques, designed to ensure such grace. The temperature of the must is lowered to 5°C before the addition of yeast and then left for three weeks for a slow ferment at around 12°C. Malolactic fermentation, if it takes place, is at 18°C.
As well as their standard range and the two prestige cuvees already mentioned, they offer the extremely rare and rather special Le Clos Saint-Hilaire, first made from the 1995 vintage. A blanc de noirs (100% Pinot Noir), it was in this small clos that the team began the practice of installing beehives (made from old barrels) to aid in pollination and to ensure a sustainable ecosystem. They use it widely now.
Many of their wines spend an extended period of time on lees – for the Clos St Hillaire, it can be 14 years. The other prestige cuvees are around ten to twelve years. Dosage is low these days, three to six grams.
Award Winning Champagne
The Nicolas François, or at least its predecessor, gained worldwide fame back in 1999 when highly regarded Champagne expert, Richard Juhlin, held a tasting of some 150 of the greatest champagnes ever made. All blind, of course, judged by experts from around the globe. The winner? The 1959 Billecart-Salmon. And if that does not convince you of the quality and longevity of the champagnes from this great house, second place went to… Billecart-Salmon 1961.
True Class
Whether you are enjoying one of the fabulous prestige cuvees from this great producer, or their standard wines like the Vintage, NV Rose (one of the great, and great value, Roses), Brut Reserve or Brut NV, it is impossible to miss the Billecart-Salmon elegance, intensity, class and delicacy.
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About The Author
Ken Gargett
4 February 2024Born and bred in Brisbane, Queensland. A non-trendy, perfectly happy childhood, in a family convinced alcohol meant instant condemnation to Hades. Law at Queensland Uni. On a break fishing on the Great Barrier Reef, someone opened a good bottle of port and so commenced a serious obsession. Studied in London, then worked London, Washington DC and Sydney in banking law (pleased to be out of that now, even if my bank manager disagrees). Returned to Queensland and was asked to do some occasional wine writing by friends who knew of the obsession. Eventually, fortunately, it took over.
Needless to say, I am a grave disappointment to my family. My mother once, when told I was off to a 'vertical tasting', was overheard muttering ‘at least you'd think these people could afford chairs’. Later, she severely chastised me, for drinking Pol champagne, disgusted I’d drink anything made by a Cambodian dictator. It has not been easy.
Now, I mostly write on wine and spirits for Drinks, Explore, AGT Wine Magazine, UK World of Fine Wine, Fine Group, tastingbook.com. Did weekly columns for the Courier Mail for many years, plus various mags, spitbucket.com, etc. I do a little on cigars (this blog, obviously, and quillandpad.com), fishing, travel and food. When not writing, I’ll either be fly-fishing, travelling, or passionately following a variety of too-often dismal sporting teams – Queensland Reds rugby, Washington Redskins, Arsenal and our occasionally glorious Aussie cricket team.
—KBG.
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