New Aussie Wine Book

Some of us will still turn to the great wine books that have provided so much joy and information over so many years – Jancis Robinson’s ‘Oxford Companion’ and her ‘Wine Grapes’, Champagne books by Richard Juhlin, Peter Liem and Tom Stevenson, Jasper Morris’s wonderful ‘Inside Burgundy’, local tomes by James Halliday and Len Evans. And so many more.

Your choice can depend on what you want or need. Information on a maker, a grape a region. Perhaps instructions on winemaking or viticulture. May be just a wonderful story like Kermit Lynch’s ‘Adventures on the Wine Route’. Or an old outrageous classic like Maurice Healy’s ‘Stay Me with Flagons’. Too many for one lifetime, though that won’t stop one from trying.

We have a new, all-encompassing and wonderfully ambitious book on Australian wine which has just hit the shelves (is it too early to be recommending books for Christmas? Is it ever too early?).

Husband and wife team of Master Sommeliers, Jane Lopes and Jonathan Ross, who have moved here from the United States, together with a strong supporting cast, have compiled a fabulous book (one could say tribute) to Australian wine – “How to Drink Australian”. The book pushes 500 pages and is $70 – super great value.

In case one is concerned that this is some form of myopic offshore critique of our wines, the writers state right from the start that they believe that Australia is making the most exciting wines on the planet. Nor is it lacking in critical thinking when necessary.

The basic concept is to move, State by State, through the nation (and yes, Queensland is included). All States are divided into their top regions, bar Tasmania and Queensland which are done as single entities. As well as history, terroir and general info, there is a section on the leading wineries and an additional section on the next level.

There is extensive data on each region and there are little blurbs throughout with gems of information – for example, Len Evans’ options game; Shiraz v Syrah and so on. Also, plenty of recommendations on what they are drinking – the danger of that, as it is with all wine books, is that things change quickly and information dates, but I think most are very safe choices.

Wineries are rated, although not traditionally (new guard, rising star, environmental hero, legend and so on). It is here that they invite the most debate as we will always have our own lists. In general, I think they have it reasonably close. But there will be debate, for sure. Take the Clare Valley – I won’t mention those I'd demote (there are very few) but almost every producer in their second level could comfortably sit in the Top Producers section. In Queensland, I think they need to drink more Tobin and Symphony Hill, from their second level list, if they think all those others are superior. One could do this in every section, but that would suggest that they don’t have the majority right. They most certainly do. Such criticisms, and any others, seem almost churlish, as this is such a useful addition to the pantheon of works on Australian wine.

That said, rather than photos, they use small pen sketches of many winemakers (there are plenty of other excellent photos throughout). I know a lot of these people and I am not too sure I recognise any of them from the drawings (I think the Tyrrells and Jeff Grosset look more like they are mug shots) and it sometimes seems like there are a lot of the same person from a different angle, but it matters little (well, perhaps to their family). The maps are useful, but they seem lacking in the depth that one finds in the writing. Perhaps they simply need to focus more. But that is a small issue.

Overall, this is a terrific read and a most welcome and important addition to the library of Australian wine. Dip in for a quick read, chase some info, or settle down with a glass of our finest and have a good read.