Summer Riesling

A good sparkling wine is always a fine option, but Australia makes so many great whites, it is hard to go wrong. Some might opt for that easy, flavour-of-the-month, for drinking not thinking, Sauvignon Blanc, while others will recognize it for what it is, a perfidious, wannabe that gives wine a bad name (yes, I fall into a not insignificant minority that really does not like the stuff). You could go with an inoffensive, though usually forgettable Pinot Gris – so many remind me of the family Christmas where you can never remember the name of your third cousin’s middle child (and you probably don’t want to).

There are, however, good options. Plenty of very fine Chardonnays. So many emerging Italian varieties, thrilling Hunter Semillon. There is one white, however, which is not just a good option – it is perfect for our climate. A top Riesling. And if Australia is not short of one thing, it is cracking Riesling. Chill a few bottles and have a magic Christmas holiday.

Most Aussie Riesling is dry, clean, crisp and fresh. It will have been made without oak or artifice and be delightful drinking when young. Flavours will likely be dominated by citrus, especially limes, lemons and grapefruit. There will be floral notes, especially jasmine, and an array of other flavours, possibly stonefruit or tropical. Often there will be a wet slate or river stone character and a minerally backing.

Aged Riesling is an entirely different treasure. In good cellars, five, ten or twenty years can perform a transformation of epic proportions. The wines turn into jewels with notes of lemon butter, toast and honey. A bottle of Jim Barry’s Florita from 2005, just last night, could not have been more thrilling. 2005 was a stunning vintage and put simply, this was surely one of the greatest whites ever made in this country.

Now you may struggle to find a bottle of the 2005, unless you have a well-stocked cellar, although many wineries do offer museum releases at times, but there are so many other choices. The Clare Valley is usually the first stop. The limes, lemons and florals are at their peak here. Grosset is justifiably famous. Pikes, O’Leary Walker, Taylors, Mt Horrocks, Jim Barry, KT and Petaluma are just a few of the names. Vickery, Kilikanoon, Paulett’s, Kirrihill, Tim Adams, Tim Gramp, Skillogalee, Knappstein, Leasingham, clos Clare, Sevenhill, Crabtree and Mitchells are also making cracking Riesling. These days, many producers have recognized that the sub-regions of the Clare can offer very different wines. So we have wineries releasing Rieslings from both Watervale and the Polish Hill River region as examples.

These wines will age brilliantly. Two producers who have made a speciality of Riesling are John Hughes at Rieslingfreak, with a wide array of locales and styles, and Neil Pike at Limefinger who has a retirement project making just two fabulous Rieslings, the Learnings from Watervale and Solace from the Polish Hill River sub-region. Yet to try the Hatch Rieslings, though hopefully that will be rectified next week, so keep an eye out. Another retirement project, this time from Chris Hatcher, who was chief winemaker for the Treasury group, and so much more for many years. If anyone knows how to make great wines, especially Rieslings, it is Hatch, so don’t miss out. The Eden Valley has a reputation which sits alongside the Clare.

The wines also offer the fine citrus and florals, but tend to be a little more elegant and delicate. Again, the wines have an exciting future if in a good cellar. Pewsey Vale is one of our oldest Riesling producers and one of the best. Heggies, Henschke, Peter Lehmann, especially their Wigan, Tapanappa and more are all worth exploring. Orlando’s Steingarten is a legendary wine. Tim Smith, Penfold’s, Sorby Adams, Mountadam, Elderton and Thorn Clarke are others to explore. Vintages in both the Clare and Eden Valleys tend along similar lines. 2021, 2022 and 2023 are all spectacular years, especially 2022. Do not hesitate to fill the cellar with these gems.

Moving west, the Great Southern region has confirmed its quality. Howard Park has long been a stalwart, while Frankland Estate, with their wide and intriguing array has established itself as one of the country’s best Riesling producers. Castle Rock should be on everyone’s radar. Victoria has wines like Seppelt’s Drumborg that are perennial favourites. Crawford River is a cult star, while Mac Forbes has pushed the boundaries of Riesling as much as anyone in the country. The cooler climate (at times) around Canberra has helped wineries like Lark Hill, Helm and Clonakilla all establish solid reputations for their Riesling. Heading south, many see Tasmania as the future – climate change is not dissuading anyone of this view. Many are small producers rarely seen, but some do filter through to the mainland. Bream Creek may be hard to find but is worth chasing. Freycinet make Riesling that seems simply ageless. Pressing Matters has focused very much on Riesling and offer an array at differing levels of residual sweetness. Something for everyone. Make sure Riesling is front and centre for your summer drinking.