Blain-Gagnard Criots-Batard-Montrachet Grand Cru 2021
Domaine Blain-Gagnard was formed in 1980 when Jean-Marc Blain married Claudine Gagnard, youngest daughter of Jacques and Marie-Josèphe Gagnard of Domaine Gagnard-Delagrange. The couple runs this venerable domaine with the help of their son Marc-Antonin. They now control 20.5 acres of vines in Chassagne-Montrachet, including holdings in three grands crus: Le Montrachet, Bâtard-Montrachet, and Criots-Bâtard-Montrachet.
Chassagne-Montrachet lies towards the southern end of the Côte de Beaune and is famous for its white wines, although half of its total plantings are in red. In addition to the Grand Crus, Blain-Gagnard’s holdings in Chassagne-Montrachet include two red premier crus and four white premier crus along with small holdings in Volnay and Pommard. The vineyards are farmed by lutte raisonée (“reasoned struggle”).
Criots-Bâtard-Montrachet comprises the two villages which are the smallest of the Grand Crus in Chassagne and Puligny-Montrachet with just 3.9 acres. The vineyard is located entirely within the commune of Chassagne-Montrachet and sits directly south of Bâtard-Montrachet. Criots is one of the smallest appellations in France and there are only a handful of producers who bottle it.
Grilled fish with a burnt butter sauce and toasted hazelnut salad
A markedly more floral-suffused and slightly cooler nose reflects notes of both white and yellow peach, citrus confit and a plenitude of spice elements. Here too the palate impression is seductive thanks to the superb concentration of the powerful and almost painfully intense broad-shouldered flavors that also display superb length on the balanced and equally tightly coiled finish.