The region now has something like 65 producers, from barely anything not so long ago. It is not often one comes across a relatively new style that challenges the great wines, but these vibrant, pristine and elegant sparklers can sit alongside many champagnes. This example is a blend of 85% Pinot Noir and 15% Chardonnay. By law, the wines must be vintage and must spend at least 30 months on lees – this one spends 36 to 48 months, depending on the vintage.

Fresh, clean, focused, with pleasing citrussy notes, pears, minerals and a fine chalky backing. A hint of orange blossoms and toasty notes. A gentle and lingering finish. Enjoy this now and for eight years. A really appealing, high class, elegant sparkler.