Comte de Vogüé Musigny Vieilles Vignes Grand Cru 2021

The mature vines in the domaine’s immense holding (5.56ha of old vines) have given us a wine with the youthful, plummy exuberance of Chambolle but with added precision and depth, revealing saline mineral notes, plus hints of flowers and spice. On the palate, the silky texture initially beguiles, and with time the firm structure and long finish become evident. Ageing in 35% new casks helps the wine retain an admirable purity of fruit. The 2020 vintage was the last vinified by François Millet, who took his retirement at a high point in his career.

As is often the case, this is aromatically similar to the Chambolle 1er but it's less expressive and perhaps more densely fruited. There is notably better mid-palate concentration to the substantially sized big-bodied flavors that also possess a positively gorgeous mouthfeel while exuding an abundance of mineral character on the hugely long and impeccably well-balanced and youthfully austere finale. This Zen-like effort is superb and a wine that should also age gracefully over the next two decades. Date: Jan 2022; Drink: 2040+; Issue: 85; Comments: Don't miss!