Many Domaines in Burgundy can trace their roots back over 100 years, but only a handful can claim more than 200 years of history. Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé can trace a line back over 550 years, to 1450 and the Chambolle vines of one Jean Moisson. Highly regarded as the greatest estate in Chambolle Musigny, today the Domaine is headed by its 20th generation – Claire de Causans and Marie de Ladoucette, the granddaughters of the late Comte Georges de Vogüé.
Current winemaker François Millet has been responsible for work in the winery since 1988. He’s raised the bar to new levels. It is said that he had a crew of 60 using tweezers to remove damaged berries for the hail affected 1991 vintage. The end results prove the merit of the effort in the glass. A special feature of de Vogüé is that their Musigny is called Musigny Vieilles Vignes – “old vines”. For this wine, only vines 25 years or older are used. The average age is usually over 40 years. Vines under 25 are downgraded to premier cru level and to Chambolle-Musigny Premier Cru and are sold for about a third of the price of the Musigny.
This too is quite aromatically restrained though aggressive swirling does eventually coax the pure and elegant aromas to emerge and when they do, they are almost a hypothetical blend of the Amoureuses and the Bonnes Mares. The concentrated, powerful and decidedly muscular flavours retain plenty of refinement and minerality that conclude in a wonderfully complex and superbly long finale. The mid-palate texture is akin to rolling rocks around in the mouth and the finish just goes on and on. This too is brilliant, and the word Zen definitely comes to mind.