With the red Vieux Télégraphe [2019], the first impression is a nose of extremely ripe red berry fruits and spice. It is not at all heavy: cute, and structured, with a slight “licorice and vanilla pod” vibe, appealingly fresh, deep, and vinous. On the palate, an attractive and serene attack, not at all violent, fairly conventional. The ripe fruit on the nose is well contained: it comes on slowly, and you are taken over by a handsome “old fashioned” frame, mixed with the berry fruits; it is very vinous, mineral, salty, smoky, slightly austere, and graphic. This is a vintage that reminds us where we come from; where the tannic structure outlines the wine without forcing itself upon you; and it maybe also reminds us of the late ‘80s Daniel Brunier