A cool, pure, and airy nose is comprised of notes of apple, citrus and white peach. There is once again fine punch and delineation to the middle-weight flavours that exude a subtle minerality on the linear, youthfully austere, and bone-dry finale.

The 2019 Meursault 1er Cru Sous le Dos d'Ane is also a touch reductive out of the gates, unwinding to reveal aromas of crisp green orchard fruit, hazelnuts, dried white flowers, and smoke. Medium to full-bodied, ample, and satiny, with lively acids and a long, saline finish, it's a seamless, elegant wine from a parcel located just above Pierre Morey's Meursault Perrières. Pierre Vincent told me that Domaine Leflaive began their harvest in 2019 on September 11, preferring not to start too precipitously and rather to wait for full maturity. Alcohol levels range between 13.5% and 14.5%, accompanied by low pHs, and as usual, élevage began with a year in barrel (from a variety of coopers, including Séguin Moreau and Chassin) followed by six months or so in tank on the lees before bottling under Diam 30. Concentrated and incisive, this is an impressive range of wines that are clearly built to age (indeed, several cuvées showed a touch of youthful reduction out of the gates) and which confirm that Domaine Leflaive is back at the top of its game.