The 2003 Dominus has turned out even better than I thought from barrel. There are 4,800 cases of this 88% Cabernet Sauvignon, 7% Cabernet Franc, and 5% Petit Verdot blend. A big, sweet nose of roasted coffee, Provencal herbs, black currants, cherry jam, plums, allspice, and forest floor is followed by a spicy, rich, full-bodied, fragrant, intense wine. The tannins are sweet, but noticeable in this beautifully complex, strikingly aromatic 2003. It has much more similarity to a great Bordeaux than anything from Napa Valley. Anticipated maturity: 2007-2025.

The most European-styled of all the Napa Valley Bordeaux blends, Dominus is owned by Petrus winemaker Christian Moueix, who works from one of region’s most historic vineyards, the renowned Napanook site from which many of the famed Inglenook wines of the fifties and sixties were produced. Interestingly, I tasted both decanted and recently opened bottles of each of these wines, and the additional aeration unquestionably revealed more nuances and character. I wouldn’t be surprised if 5-10 hours of decanting resulted in significant improvement for these young wines.

P.S. When I asked Christian Moueix to briefly summarize the last three Dominus vintages, he called 2001 “classic and elegant,” 2002 “exuberant and rich in more of a California style,” and 2003 “extremely aromatic and supple.”