The celebrated estate of Dugat-Py, located at the base of the Combe de Lavaux in Gevrey-Chambertin, has been producing world-class wines for decades. While the exterior of the house impresses with its mid-16th-century architecture, it is the aging cellar that is truly spectacular. The cellar, or L'Aumônerie, is essentially a small abbey that was built by the Diocese of Dijon in the 11th century — making it the oldest cellar in Burgundy today.
Renowned wine critic Allen Meadows, the mind behind Burghound, offers insight into the transition of Bernard Dugat's legacy to his son, Loïc, who now fully oversees the domaine, while Bernard remains a guiding presence. Reflecting on the 2020 growing season, Dugat highlights the recurring themes of heat, dryness, and early harvests, which posed challenges for younger vines. However, the domaine's wealth of older vines, boasting well-established root systems, weathered the conditions admirably. Notably, Loïc continued the tradition of using a significant proportion of whole clusters during vinification, a practice that seamlessly saw through completion. Dugat's perspective on the 2020 vintage is nothing short of enthusiastic, emphasizing the wines' exceptional balance and invigorating vibrancy. He expresses genuine appreciation for their style and believes this vintage holds the potential for greatness. As always, Dugat-Py's wines uphold their reputation for being structured and built for extended aging, even though Loïc has adjusted his approach to extraction. Meadows reiterates that patience is key, particularly for the flagship wines, highlighting their suitability for long-term cellaring, while acknowledging that those who can't resist opening them early should generously decant the wines to unlock their full potential.