The Elderton Command Shiraz has established an enviable reputation since the first vintage in 1984. It is truly one of Australia’s best and most highly regarded icon wines. Accolades have come from the world over for vintages such as the 1992, which was chosen by the influential wine critic Robert Parker in his U.S. magazine the Wine Advocate as one of the world’s Top 80 wines. The 1995 Command was awarded 95 points by Wine Spectator and placed in their Top 100 wines; the 2000 was awarded 97 points by the same magazine and placed 27 in their Top 100. The 1996 Command won the trophy for the best Shiraz in the world at the London International Wine and Spirit Competition.
The second generation of Ashmead's and Elderton's Co-Managing Directors, Allister and Cameron, as the current custodians of a rare piece of Barossa Valley viticultural heritage, continue their parents' aspirations and expectations to produce a great wine of the world. The Command is truly an expression of place and one which the family intends to preserve for generations to come.
This does command respect thanks to the fruit coming off 123yo vines and the care with it from that moment right through to the winemaking. It is powerful and divine. Lush with dark fruit coated with chocolate, pepper, and coffee. The palate feels all velvety with the tannins neatly placed, the oak integrated, and with a glass in hand, a sense that all's well with the world.
2017 was a challenging season for the region with several rain events, but this wine has nailed it with a slightly less overt and more restrained style than previous vintages, although still within the established style of Command. It gets 30 months in a mix of French and American oak, a combination that remains important to the style. Importantly it is still 100% new oak. The wine has been crafted into such a seamless and smoothly textured wine, benefitting no doubt from the vines which are now 127 years old. The chalky tannin feel contributes greatly to the appealing texture and mouthfeel. Rich dark chocolate and lush primary fruits with a spicy vanillin overlay. Dense and concentrated yet with a degree of subtlety and finesse with a palate that sits more in the medium weight zone than the more traditional big boy full body.