Domaine Raveneau is arguably the greatest estate in Chablis. The Domaine produces limited quantities of wines from the village’s top vineyards. The Domaine’s holdings include 3 Grand Cru vineyards: Blanchot, Les Clos, and Valmur; and a selection of Premier Crus: Montée de Tonnerre, Les Vaillons, Butteaux, Chapelot, Mont-Mains, and Forêt. The Domaine’s creation dates back to 1948 when François Raveneau consolidated his holdings with his wife’s parcels. François Raveneau built the reputation of this estate thanks to his inimitable style and incredible consistency in quality.
The vineyard of Montée de Tonnerre is located on the same south-facing slope as the grand crus. This Montée de Tonnerre is made from blending grapes from 1.8 hectares of vines in the lieu-dit of Chapelot and 1.2 hectares of vines in the cooler, racier lieu-dit of Pied d’Aloup.
The 2020 Montée de Tonnerre is almost impossibly youthful, with bright, lemony fruit shaded with white blossoms and hints of gunflint and spice. The texture is massive and tightly wound. The acidity in this ripe vintage was not as crisp as some but more than enough to bring the wine into balance. The wine does not yet express the full range of complexity that it seems capable of; I would wait at least another two years, but it should drink well for another quarter-century after that.