Raveneau's Montmains lies on very different soils to Forêts (here, they are very thin with vines an average of 35 years old). Despite being a windy site, there is a little more tropicality, with hints of orange blossom and a crystalline palate. This finishes with a fine line of acidity and a pronounced, chalky, mineral finish.

The age of vines, 35 years, is similar to neighbouring Forêt, but here they are at the top of the slope. A little more yellow in the colour and a little more power to the nose. Some bacon fat, not too much reduction but a fine stony tension. Excellent grip and persistence.

The 2020 Chablis Montmains 1er Cru has a complex, beautifully defined bouquet of crushed rock, pressed white flowers and a touch of sea spray that seems to gain intensity with aeration. The palate is very well balanced with slithers of white peach and orange zest, segueing into slightly more exotic passion fruit and fresh pineapple notes toward the finish. The mineralité is never very far away. Superb.