I’m sure that Grosset’s Alea Riesling has always been a serious wine, but in the glass it’s more serious than ever, if that makes sense. There’s excellent intensity here. There’s a slip of fruit sweetness but it’s gentle and slight, the clearer message one of crisp green apples, lime, minerals and tonic-like herbs. I get the feeling that Alea has changed tack slightly, become drier, more mineral, less grapey. I’m a fan. This is very good.