Kumeu River, located to the northwest of Auckland, undoubtedly stands as New Zealand's preeminent chardonnay producer. The virtuoso of both the Master of Wine title and Winemaker, Michael Brajkovich, has dedicated his expertise to the art of crafting exquisite chardonnay at this estate since the 1980s. Meticulously selecting hand-picked fruits from low-yielding vines, employing whole bunch pressing and harnessing the power of wild yeasts, a harmonious blend emerges.
Through a nuanced process, a third of the fruit finds its destiny in French oak barriques, while full malolactic fermentation orchestrates the symphony, gracefully tempering the pristine acidity and bestowing a multi-dimensional texture. Unsurprisingly, Michael unabashedly draws parallels between his Chardonnays and the eminent White Burgundies, such as the esteemed Domaine Leflaive.
If Michael Brajkovich MW were a Burgundian rather than a New Zealander, he would be among the most celebrated white winemakers in the Côte de Beaune, right up there with the likes of Dominique Lafon, Pierre-Yves Colin Morey and Jean-Marc Roulot. The good news for us is that we can buy his amazing Chardonnays at ludicrously cheap prices. This is only his entry-point wine, but is typically well balanced, refreshing and focused, with just a hint of oak spice, leesy complexity, some struck match undertones and a chiselled, refreshing finish. A Kiwi wine that’s better than many Puligny-Montrachets.