Gosh this is good. This is the region and the variety and the estate all committing to the task and combining to exemplary effect. Such structure, such fruit, such balance and such impact. Blackcurrant and pencils, dark chocolate and herbs, some eucalypt lift and even some florals. Tannin, my word, it’s beautifully formed, a keel with wings, a determinant. I kept tasting this wine and it kept telling me things. Leeuwin Estate cabernet is now right up there with the best.

Just as the Art Series Chardonnay has Block 20 as its heart, the Art Series Cabernet relies on Block 8. Go back to the early days and it is fair to say the Cabernet struggled to garner the accolades which were showered upon the Chardonnay. No longer. This is now (another) jewel in their crown. Dark maroon hue. The aromas include black fruits, tobacco leaves, chocolate, coffee beans, blackberries, cassis, delicatessen meats and leather. Utterly alluring and this persists on the palate with mouthpuckering tannins on a very long finish. The oak is perfectly melded. This has at least ten to twelve years ahead of it and the score should go higher, perhaps considerably higher, over that period. So much to like here – this sits comfortably with the top examples from the region.