There was some debate around a decade ago that this iconic Margaret River winery had lost a little of its glitter and that the wines were not what they once were. I was not quite as onboard with that as some – in fairness, it is not easy to remain at the pinnacle for a half century – but in recent years, the levels of quality they have attained have put to rest any such doubts. These guys now make some of the most thrilling wines in Margaret River and none better than their Cabernet. There are some world class Cabs made in the region and the MW sits with the very best. This vintage ranks with the finest of recent releases and there have been some crackers. To be honest, to look at this, I slipped it into a tasting which friends had organised, which was of some “super-second level” Bordeaux and great Margaret River Cabernets, from vintages as far back as 1990, right up to today. It will give an indication of how well it went if I tell you that one friend, not usually known for purchasing anything other than the great wines of Europe, rang the next day to say he had already picked up a six pack.

96% Cabernet Sauvignon and 2% each of Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot, this is elegance personified. A low yielding and slightly cooler vintage, the grapes went into small open tanks for fermentation, with thrice daily hand-plunging. 15 days on skins and then pressed to tank before it was racked to French oak, 15% new. Over two years maturation. As mentioned, elegance personified. A silky combination of coiled power and finesse, this is a glorious Cabernet. Blackberries, spices, tobacco leaves, kid leather, violets, cigar box notes, aniseed and delicately integrated oak. There is a gossamer-like web of complexity weaving through the wine. Seamless, great length and cashmere tannins. This is a brilliant wine. Ten years, twenty years? How long have you got? If you are serious about great Australian Cabernet, this is a must for your cellar.

Deep crimson. Classical blackcurrant, blackberry, and cedar aromas with mocha, and a hint of sage notes. Beautifully balanced and concentrated palate with fresh pure blackcurrant, blackberry, mulberry fruits, fine loose-knot grainy tannins, and well-integrated roasted almond, and vanilla oak. Builds up cedar firm with an inky long plume. Let it develop for a few years at least. 96% cabernet sauvignon, 2% cabernet franc, 2% petit verdot.

Powerful, compact, brooding sort of style, but tight too, all black fruit, dark chocolate, a seasoning of bay leaf and baking spice, some floral notes peeping over the top. Tannin is earthy and dense, but smooth and layered, boysenberry and dark raspberry, firm acidity set neatly inside, and a tobacco and black olive savoury finish of length and intensity. A very strong release, indeed maybe the best in the last decade. High drinkability, even early.