The new 2012 vintage of Veuve Clicquot's top rosé sweeps in full of dynamics and detail, the 13% proportion of red wine bringing a succulent red apple, rose and poached strawberry fragrance to 2012's finessed, narrowing build. There's an intriguing smoky/reductive streak at present too, setting off the fruit-forwardness and creamy undercurrent with a touch of drama and energy. This has the volume and immediacy to enjoy now, but even more impressive is the precision and build of a truly cellar-worthy rosé. 92% Pinot Noir from Äy, Verzenay, Verzy, Ambonnay and Bouzy (13% as red wine from Bouzy), 8% Chardonnay from Avize and Le Mesnil-sur-Oger. Dosage 8 g/L. Drink 2023 - 2040.

The 2012 Brut Rosé La Grande Dame is the finest wine I've tasted from Veuve Clicquot in several decades. Offering up aromas of red berries, bee pollen, orange zest and freshly baked bread, it's medium to full-bodied, pillowy and precise, with a deep core of fruit and a vibrant, tightly coiled profile, concluding with a penetrating, sapid finish. This isn't the muscular, powerful Clicquot style of yesteryear, but it's a compelling effort in a fine-boned, more polished register. Drink 2023 - 2038.