The 2019 Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos has turned out brilliantly, mingling aromas of orange oil, confit citrus, and crisp green apple with notes of warm bread, white flowers, oyster shell, and anise in an incipiently complex bouquet. Full-bodied, layered, and muscular, it's concentrated and tightly wound, with broad shoulders and huge depth at the core, concluding with a long, electric finish. It was cropped at 25 hectoliters per hectare. I left my tasting with Didier Séguier wondering if the 2019s might be the best vintage I've ever tasted at Domaine William Fèvre.

At this address, the vintage's low yields have translated to wines of remarkable concentration, but Séguier has also achieved levels of cut and tension that are rare in contemporary Chablis. My only reservation (if one can call it that) is that these are serious, structured wines that are tightly wound and introverted after their recent bottling, a tendency no doubt amplified by their DIAM closures; therefore, many are surely destined to be drunk too young. But readers who purchase Fèvre's top 2019s and forget them for more than a decade are going to be richly rewarded, of that I'm confident. Aside from the quality of the 2019 vintage, the other big news here is that Fèvre is converting to organic farming, an ambitious and admirable project for this 78-hectare Domaine. (WK)

96 points Robert Parker's Wine Advocate.