Barolo The Wine of Kings

In the northwest corner of Italy sharing its borders with both France and Switzerland, it is a picturesque region of mountains and valleys, overrun with vineyards, castles and incredible cuisine. Once the seat of the Savoy empire, since the nineteenth century, Piedmont has been known for its Barolo and Barbaresco, delicious crave-worthy wines made from the Nebbiolo grape.

The wines are rich and full-bodied, with a strong presence of acidity and tannins. Barolos are often compared to the great Pinot Noirs of Burgundy, due to their light brick-garnet pigments and bright acidity. Rose flower, tar, and dried herbs are aromas frequently associated with Barolo wines. According to DOCG regulations, the wines must be aged for at least two years in oak and one year in bottle, with five years of age (three in oak) required for Riserva labelling, both with a minimum 13 percent alcohol content.

The Barolo production area is subdivided into 11 villages, or “communes” Barolo, La Morra, Monforte d’Alba, Serralunga d’Alba, Castiglione Falletto, Novello, Grinzane Cavour, Verduno, Diano d’Alba, Cherasco and Roddi. The five communes of La Morra, Monforte d’Alba, Serralunga d’Alba, Barolo and Castiglione Falletto are thought to produce the highest quality Barolo wines.

In each commune, there is a small number of “crus”. These are the most prestigious vineyards which are known to produce grapes of the highest quality.

Until the early 1970s Barolo was for the most part a non-cru wine. It was the ideal blend of grapes from: La Morra (for fragrance and softness), Barolo (for grace and earthiness), Castiglion Falletto (for boldness and richness), Serralunga (for depth and power), Monforte (for concentration and structure).

However, thanks to the efforts of Gaja, Ratti, and Ceretto, among others, the practice of single-vineyards designation is now the fabric of Barolo (much as it is for the great wines of Burgundy…).

Barolo from each commune has its own unique taste and character. This is because of the differences in soil type, the presence of natural springs, and the altitude of the hills. This month we will delve into some of the Cru’s of Barolo from the 2016’s from Sordo Giovanni,

Sordo Giovanni is a single family that owns over 50 hectares of vineyards between Langhe and Roero. For four generations they have been producing exceptional wines such as Barolo, Barbaresco, Dolcetto d’Alba, Barbera D’Alba and much more.. The family-run winery was founded in 1912 and became famous with the great contribution of Giovanni Sordo.

A Perfect Vintage makes for perfect fruit...
When comparing the 2015 & 2016 vintages you see the difference between a warmer vintage with a shorter ripening period and a cooler one with the longest ripening period in some time.

Nebbiolo responds beautifully to a cooler longer ripening. Once it reaches sugar levels high enough to make a wine around 14-14.5% alcohol the sugar levels stop increasing, it tends to hold its acid and the tannins so important to the fullness & complexity of great Nebbiolo.

Sordo Barolo Ravera DOCG 2016This red cherry and brick-dust opening is becoming familiar; the Ravera trademark. Then some gorgeous classy, sappy note, some rose perfumes and back to the recurring essence; red things. Lush, saturated red things dominate, with whatever might be underneath, mostly swamped for now. A lot of wine. Palate is expansive, nervy and savoury – in fact quite grippy. Reminds a lot of 2013. Great potential, not bad now!- David Ridge Importer

Sordo Barolo Monvigliero DOCG 2016 Very recognisable again; the graphite and generous almost smoky black cherry/prune announces a Monvigliero. Often the most ready and giving of the Sordo Cru, this is both expressive now, yet clearly very classy. Maybe a bit of orange liqueur today? Probably shows more dense and complex than previously. Even a touch glossy. Moderately grippy as expected, and with a nice fine acid tingle. - David Ridge Importer

Sordo Barolo Villero DOCG 2016 As tight as … usual for a Villero. Some cherry/cranberry skin and dried flowers poking out and some hints of the darker layer, tobacco. Opens to quite pronounced pot-purri and some fresh-flower fragrance. fabulously framed full palate with unevolved but full, textured, firm and forceful. Long. Seamless acid/tannin of Castiglione (and St Julien) Tight knit, this one. Wonderful. -David Ridge Importer

Sordo Barolo Rocche di Castiglione DOCG 2016 Seeing a more crimson touch (than Villero or Monprivato either side) and certainly Rocche’s density of colour overall. Again a controlled, blockbuster, with layers of dried and fading flowers, tobacco, cranberry and cherry liqueur. Huge, almost sweet palate. Long, but tight and relatively unevolved still, of course. Will be superb again.- David Ridge Importer

Sordo Barolo Monprivato DOCG 2016 Monprivato Started dense and fragrant…then shut down. All about delicacy, almost Barbaresco-like with roses, strawberry, orange and musk. Slowly opens, to cranberry, fading flowers and more dense elements of cherry liqueur cinnamon and tobacco. A brilliant classy sappiness tell-tales on a red of essential tightness, but evolving complexities. Palate is big; bigger than Rocche and with some clear ripe red fruit flavours and that Castiglione acid/tannin bonding. Has energy. Should do big things. Slowly. -David Ridge Importer

Sordo Barolo Parussi DOCG 2016 Parussi …doesn’t change its spots. Chubby is the word here – gorgeous lush, ripe, generous red fruits and big vase of fading flowers, some chocolate and cherry liqueur. This will be noticed and loved. Palate is big, sweet and expansive, yet sitting all around, or just slightly under all this, is a nice grippy/tingly frame. Glorious, energetic, rich Barolo hanging it all out there. -David Ridge Importer

Sordo Barolo Perno DOCG 2016 Perno Light, tight and teasingly fragrant. Very typical Perno; aromatics jostling with tannins. Cherry liqueur, sandalwood, menthol, violet and blueberry. Very Monforte tannins sit straight up, grippy and chalky in the mouth. Power and finesse, but barely useable just yet. Very long life here. - David Ridge Importer

Sordo Barolo Gabutti DOCG 2016 Wow. So dense in aromatics that it’s hard to label them! Wait. Ok start with cherry cola, then a smoky thing, some fennel seed, cigar, porcini and spice, maybe nutmeg or cinnamon. Plate is ultra elegant, complete but not a bit ponderous. Very fine – although the tannins are clearly Serralunga black tea type. Simply fabulous and the star of this first tasting. - David Ridge Importer