Summer time Sauvignon

Sauvignon Blanc can sometimes be underrated. As with other grape varieties, its style varies markedly from one part of the world to the other. It’s a grape that will give you different flavours and aromas in cool climates and warm climates.

One thing that is prominent is its high acidity. As Nick Jackson MW points out in his book Beyond Flavour, the type of acidity found in Sauvignon Blanc is spiky or jagged. Whilst a variety like Chardonnay has acidity with no hard edges, Sauvignon Blanc is the opposite, the acidity pricks the inside of the mouth.

Sauvignon Blanc is also easily recognisable by its aromas. It is after all, one of the most distinctive aromatic grapes. Expect pungent, in-your-face aromas ranging from freshly cut grass, asparagus and herbs, to more tropical and ripe passionfruit, gooseberry, grapefruit and white peach.

Its natural home is in the Loire, and most likely gets its name from the French word ‘sauvage’ meaning “wild”, and ‘blanc’ meaning “white”, due to its early origins as an indigenous grape in South West France. It’s here you find the more green and herbaceous wines, with chalky minerality and honey dew melon.

Two of the very finest villages and examples of Sauvignon Blanc are Sancerre and Pouilly-Fume, my absolute favourites and go-to wines, especially to pair with goats’ cheese and grilled shellfish. They both show elegance and minerality. Pouilly-Fume tends to be a little broader, softer, slightly less vibrant and aromatic than Sancerre. It can have a smoky character, especially those from flint (silex) soils. Try the Clément & Florian Berthier Sancerre 2019, which is especially wonderful with Salmon puff pastry parcels or Chavignol goat’s cheese. The clean, racy nose reveals hints of grapefruit, white flowers and flintiness. On the palate, the attack is full and silky, rich and plump with underlying freshness.

You will find Sauvignon Blanc in white Bordeaux where its racy acidity is mellowed down in blends with Semillon. A big wine moment for me was in Chateau Haut Brion in Bordeaux experiencing a wine tasting line up of old vintages of Chateau Haut Brion Blanc… there are no words to describe how truly glorious those whites were! I’m pretty sure angels were flying around me from heaven singing hallelujah… time froze and I knew then that wine can truly be the nectar of the gods! Closer to home in the Margaret River, some premium wine makers are also following the Bordeaux idea of blending Sauvignon Blanc with Semillon and gaining a big following.

For something worthy of any esky off to a party, ask the Cellar for Shaw & Smith's latest vintage of Sauvignon Blanc from Adelaide Hills – a cooler climate version with more white peach and honeydew amongst the acidity. Actually… get a case of this summer staple (you’ll thank me for it!).

It wouldn’t be fair not to at least mention New Zealand. New Zealand is to Sauvignon Blanc as Cricket in the Summer is to Australia, it’s something you just know from birth. New Zealand and its super charged passionfruit and gooseberry versions, particularly from Marlborough and Hawkes Bay, spread their wings and travelled to every corner of the world proclaiming they were unique, exuberant and intense. An astonishing feat from a small country to have such a loud voice, but not surprising from the land of the Haka and All Blacks! I particularly love the small parcels of Fumé Sauvignon Blanc from Amisfield or Cloudy Bay's TeKoko, where Sauvignon sees a little oaking.