Fabien Coche is a fourth-generation vigneron who took over from his father, Alain, in 2005. From the ’20 vintage, the name of the Domaine changed from Coche-Bizouard to Fabien Coche. The Coche family is well known in Burgundy: Raphaël Coche-Dury is a cousin, and the two Domaines were one until they split in 1949. Fabien’s shunning of the limelight and understated winemaking have kept him relatively under the radar. A pragmatic and forward-thinking winemaker, he moved in 2007 from the cramped family cellars in Meursault to more practical, purpose-built premises outside the village.

He uses more and more large-format oak (foudres and 500- to 600-litre barrels) to minimise oxidation in the face of warmer, riper vintages. After several years of trials, he now uses Diam “Origine” corks (made with beeswax) across the range to ensure consistent aging. He farms organically, not for any commercial motivation but out of respect for the health of those working in the vineyard.

It is coming from 7 parcels of beautifully situated vines owned by the estate all within Meursault just below the village. This wine is whole bunch pressed then raised in a 3000-litre foudre before being moved back to stainless steel for 6 months in tank and bottled with no fining or filtration in January after a total of 16 months on lees. This is clearly not an average Bourgogne blanc with weight texture and character way above its humble appellation label. A Bourgogne blanc that delivers freshness and attractive Chardonnay fruit yet are also very complex and nuanced.