Domaine Fabien Coche ... is one of the most underrated sources of high-quality white Burgundy in the Côte de Beaune. Alain Coche took his time, leaving his wines on the lees to mature at a leisurely pace for two winters, and produced classically balanced, textbook Meursault that evolved beautifully in the cellar; today, his son Fabien follows suit, with a few small refinements: today, the Coche harvest takes two weeks, not one, with each parcel brought in at optimal maturity, and there are more larger-format barrels in the cellar alongside the regular Burgundian pièces. These are not stylized, flashy wines, and they aren’t as dramatic as some of the region’s more sought-after domaines on release, but readers with the patience to cellar them will be amply rewarded.

From a superbly sited vineyard that lies just below 1er cru Genevrieres and also borders on to 1er cru Les Charmes on the south side towards the Puligny Montrachet border. Coche’s vines here are 40-45 years old and the wine shows a step up in intensity yet still with the finesse and softeness typical of Charmes. Bottled early April 2019 after elevage of about 18 months. Very fine structure and notable length this has lovely balance already and is the most immediately approachable of all his Meursaults. A very fine village wine of considerable complexity.