Renowned and respected as one of the finest producers in Burgundy, Bouchard Père et Fils has truly become an institution, known for the exceptional quality of their wines and the diversity of its many vineyards. Founded in 1731, Bouchard Père et Fils has built up an estate of 130ha and, collectively, is the largest owner of Grand Crus (12ha) and Premier Crus (74ha) across the Côte d’Or.
The appellation Bonnes-Mares is located just south of the Clos de Tart, the neighbouring Grand Cru, forming a rectangle between the hollowed hillsides of Morey and Chambolle. More of it lies in the territory of Chambolle-Musigny than that of Morey-Saint-Denis. Its exposition is easterly and its altitude averages between 250 and 280 metres. Bouchard Père & Fils acquired 24 "acres" at Chambolle-Musigny and now produces a little over 1000 bottles of this wine per year. Bonnes-Mares is rich and fleshy with a mouth-filling body. It has a clearly defined structure, is full-bodied rather than flowery, and at times a little wild.
It will stand aging for as long as 30-50 years. Wine lovers argue over the nuances said to distinguish the Morey side of the appellation from the Chambolle end. The truth is that the roundness of the one and the elegance of the other are submerged in the delicately tannic power common to both. Its aromas evoke violet, humus, and underbrush.
Once again, for this taster, the 2019 Bonnes Mares Grand Cru is the high point of Bouchard's portfolio, and it will be worth a special effort to track down. Mingling scents of peonies, rose petals, wild berries, and bergamot in a perfumed and quintessentially Chambolle bouquet—even if, since the upper part of the parcel is being replanted, this derives exclusively from so-called "Terres rouges"—it's medium to full-bodied, layered and perfumed, with terrific concentration, bright acids, and a long, mineral finish. This isn't the most powerful wine in the range, but it's the most elegant; and it's refreshing to see Bonnes Mares interpreted in this register, rather than being extracted to the point of monstrosity.
The 2019 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru is well-defined on the nose, perhaps missing some of the blue fruit you often find from this vineyard, and quite strict yet detailed and focused, with touches of black tea infusing the cranberry and raspberry. The palate is energetic on the entry thanks to a fine bead of acidity and smooth texture. It exerts quite a grip on the finish. This should open up more once racked.