Michel Colin was the third generation in his family to grow grapes in Burgundy within the prestigious Côte de Beaune. When he retired in 2003, he handed the property over to his sons, Philippe and Bruno, who split the holdings between them to bottle under separate labels. With the help of his wife, Stéphanie, Bruno farms eight hectares of land, in thirty different parcels scattered over five communes, with sometimes as little as just a few rows per parcel. To farm under these circumstances is quintessentially Burgundian, where the old Napoleonic codes of inheritance (evolved from Roman law) divide property equally among offspring. Parcels farmed by any one family continue to get smaller and smaller as they are distributed among relatives.
Bruno’s style shows beautiful balance, both aromatically and texturally, while showcasing the delicate minerality and nuanced complexity of each vineyard. This wine reveals the aromas of fruit and white flowers. It is perfectly balanced between finesse and strength making it open and direct. The texture is strong and firm. This premier cru offers exceptional aging potential. The palate is full, round, fleshy, and succulent with a long, mineral finish. Good tension.
This is the first wine to display any appreciable reduction and in this case it's enough to overshadow the underlying fruit. The caressing and delicious middle weight plus flavors display excellent punch on the overtly citrus-inflected finale that is somewhat attenuated today though I suspect that it will eventually flesh out and my rating offers the benefit of the doubt.