It’s one of those somewhat lighter weight wines yet distinguished by savoury, game meat characters and distinct crushed-rock minerality. It soars with perfume, dark fruited, stony, herbal, meaty, the palate an echo of this with streaks of pulverised pumice tannin and gently sweet fruit tempered by alpine herb and lavish black pepper. It’s a serious syrah, yet has refreshment factor and lift too. It has an edge, a cockeye and hip thrust, it is the wink of Alan Cooper and the laugh of Nelly Cooper and wholly Cobaw in derring-do and distinction. It invokes difference and charisma and charm. I’m so in.