The De Montille family has long been a venerable one in Burgundy, though Domaine de Montille’s reputation was properly established in 1947: prominent Dijon lawyer Hubert de Montille inherited 2.5 hectares in Volnay, later adding further parcels in Volnay, Pommard, and Puligny. Hubert’s style was famously austere: low alcohol, high tannin, and sublime in maturity. His son, Etienne, joined him from ’83 to ’89 before becoming the senior winemaker, taking sole charge from ’95. Etienne also managed Château de Puligny-Montrachet from ’01; he bought it, with investors, in ’12.

The two estates were separate until ’17 when the government decreed that any wine estate bearing an appellation name could no longer offer wine from outside that appellation. The solution was to absorb the château estate into De Montille – the amalgamated portfolio is now one of the finest in the Côte d’Or.

Etienne converted the estate to organics in ‘95, and to biodynamics in 2005, making the house style more generous and open, focusing on the use of whole bunches for the reds.

A "chalumeau" is a medieval wind instrument. It can be seen on tapestries at the Hospices de Beaune. It is true that this part of the slope is rather windy and that this vineyard is at the top of the slope on austere and rocky soil.

This wine is often on the margins of Puligny's Premier Crus. This 0.30 hectare of vines typically gives a very mineral wine with rocky accents, a tense mouthfeel, and a cutting and saline finish.