freshness, and a notable slice of new oak on the palate (30% used). The finish is particularly crystalline, representing the fact that the rock is much nearer the surface here than Pruliers or Les St-Georges . A properly vibrant Vaucrains for the medium term.

The 2021 Nuits Saint-Georges Les Vaucrains 1er Cru has the most floral and airy bouquet from Gouges: perfumed wilted rose petal and peony scents, shimmering red fruit and citrus peel. The palate is medium-bodied with fine-boned tannins, beautifully balanced and the archetypal "transparent" Pinot Noir on the finish. Not deep or powerful, one that will be difficult to resist when young.

Here too the restrained nose is cool, pure and distinctly earthy with more fruit aromas that derive from the red side of the spectrum. There is again excellent energy to the bigger-bodied and more mineral-driven flavours that flash a taut muscularity on the beautifully persistent finish that is shaped by a firm core of dense but relatively fine tannins. As is virtually always the case with the Gouges Vaucrains, this is built-to-age and a wine that will require extended patience. Excellent. Outstanding.

The aromas from the premier cru Vaucrains are a bit less forward but quite elegant nonetheless, with a pronounced blackberry fruit and lovely floral and earthy notes. The texture is silky and very fine, with a lively acidity but enough extract to assure a lovely, lingering finish. This is from the domaine-owned parcel south of the village at the exit of the valley called the Combe des Vallerots. The vines are located above the vineyard of premier cru Les St-Georges at mid-slope. The grapes are destemmed and gently fermented before ageing in cask (20% new).