A deft but not invisible application of wood sets off ripe yet cool aromas of citrus peel, pear and apple compote along with hints of mineral reduction and oyster shell. There is excellent volume and impressive mid-palate density to the larger-scaled flavors that flash focused power on the youthfully austere and superbly long finale that exhibits a touch of wood. This classy effort is very promising and built to reward extended keeping.

Paler colour here, and a clearly backward nose. Not that it stuns you with its power from the outset, but there is clearly more to this wine – which was properly protected from the frost, with only the upper section suffering. All in white fruit, a little tension, some marine qualities, discreet and quite long. Lovely salinity to finish. Drink from 2027-2035.