Kumeu River, northwest of Auckland is without a doubt NZ’s finest chardonnay producer. Master of Wine and Winemaker Michael Brajkovich has been crafting fine chardonnay at the estate since the 1980s. Handpicked fruit and vigorous selection from the low-yielding vines, whole bunch pressed wild yeasts, a third of the fruit fermented in French oak barriques, and full malolactic fermentation to soften the pristine acidity and add texture and dimension. Not surprising Michael is not shy in comparing his Chardonnays with the great White Burgundies like Domaine Leflaive!
In 1990, Maté Brajkovich reworked the land and planted a new vineyard of Chardonnay vines on the site of the original vineyard that he and his family purchased in March 1944. The first grapes from this vineyard were harvested in March 1993, the year following Maté's death. The resulting wine was released in November 1994 to coincide with celebrations marking the Fiftieth Anniversary of the Brajkovich Family's arrival at Kumeu River. The concentration and density of Mate’s Vineyard shines through in this wine even though the 2023 vintage was lighter with a moderate alcohol of 12.5%. No new oak was used in the vinification due to the lighter yields but there was a high proportion of 1 & 2 year old barrels which means the oak feel to this wine is similar to other vintages The vine age of Mate’s Vineyard, now 33 years, contributes to the inherent quality and reputation of this wine and we are confident that bottle age of up to ten years will be beneficial. - Winemaker notes
Very steely and floral, with brightness and impressive aromas of honeysuckle, lemongrass and just a touch of cream. Medium- to full-bodied with layered and creamy phenolics that give a lovely, almost velvety texture to the wine, and then the end is so crisp and minerally. Driven at the end. Needs time to come together. This will be so complex in three to four years. Best after 2027.