Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé is unique as it can trace its history all the way back to the 15th century. Since then the Domaine has remained in the hands of the same family by inheritance or marriage. De Vogüé is also unique in that they only make wines from Chambolle-Musigny. All vineyards are grown in a more or less organic way, though this is not indicated on the label or certified. More than 12.5ha are owned. The main Grand Crus are Musigny and Bonnes-Mares. Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé also owns 0.56ha of Chambolle- Musigny’s Amoureuses vineyard, a premier cru situated just below Musigny and regarded by many as of grand cru quality. For 10 years Bourgogne has used horses to plough Amoureuses to protect the vines, which were planted in 1964 and 1974. Their parcels are on stony topsoils over oolitic limestone. Millet characterises the wine: ‘It’s the first lady of Chambolle, but not frivolous.’ Or, to extend his metaphor, it’s like Musigny’s little sister, always refined, yet never lacking backbone.
The 1991 Chambolle-Musigny-Les Amoureuses is nearly black in colour, with huge amounts of fruit, glycerin, and body supported by equally massive amounts of tannin. This is one 1991 where the tannins appear excessive - until you taste the sweetness and rich, concentrated fruit. It is a wine for drinking between 2000-2025.
By any standards, Comte de Vogue's 1991s are impressive wines. They reveal the deepest colours of any red burgundies I tasted from the 1991 vintage. In fact, their deep purple, saturated colours are reminiscent of barrel samples of Cabernet Sauvignon or Syrah. Made in a Bordeaux-like style, they are tannic, exceptionally well-structured, and loaded with flavour and muscle. Are they the most elegant and personality-filled red burgundies? Only time will tell, as all these wines need at least 5-6 years of cellaring.