Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé is unique as it can trace its history all the way back to the 15th century. Since then the Domaine has remained in the hands of the same family by inheritance or marriage. De Vogüé is unique in that they only make wines from Chambolle-Musigny. All vineyards are grown in a more or less organic way, though this is not indicated on the label or certified. More than 12.5ha are owned. The main Grand Crus are Musigny and Bonnes-Mares. Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé also owns 0.56ha of Chambolle- Musigny’s Amoureuses vineyard, a premier cru situated just below Musigny and regarded by many as of grand cru quality. For 10 years Bourgogne has used horses to plough Amoureuses to protect the vines, which were planted in 1964 and 1974. Their parcels are on stony topsoils over oolitic limestone. Millet characterises the wine: ‘It’s the first lady of Chambolle, but not frivolous.’ Or, to extend his metaphor, it’s like Musigny’s little sister, always refined, yet never lacking backbone.
The nose starts with faint mushrooms against a tightly-held core of fruit. The nose continuously evolves; first, there are strawberry notes then a multitude of redcurrant and other red-berry fruits take turns coming to the fore – this is superb, very complex and becomes quite haunting. The palate has both intensity and balance but gives little else away, it is a very primary performance. There is more than ample length, but it’s the nose that dominates this wine, and what a nose!