From a stunning vintage that seems to have been overlooked as it was swamped by the legendary 2016s. Your cellar should be well represented with both. That said, the winery talks about how this was more in the style of the wine offered by older generations (and absolutely nothing wrong with that), while the 2016s are the new vision. This is deep and dark maroon in hue, with great depth. The immediate impression is of a wine that needs time – in the cellar, in a decanter and in the glass – for the full rewards to be enjoyed. That said, it already has a good few years under its belt and its glories are being unveiled. It is beautifully perfumed, with notes of truffles, chocolate, roast meats and darker berries. In the older style, perhaps, but still delicious. Even some hints of vegemite become apparent on the palate. This is full flavoured and quite powerful. Impressive length. Here we move into the realm of power rather than elegance. A decade plus ahead.

An opulent Brunello, suggesting glacé cherries, strawberry ice-cream, peppermint tea and dried cloves. Full-bodied and very structured, muscling sturdy layers of tannins and rolling sheets of dark fruit into ironclad balls of flavor and texture. Long and fruit-driven on the finish. Drink from 2024.

This wine reveals a beautifully rich and saturated appearance as it pours from the bottle. The Cerbaia 2015 Brunello di Montalcino offers a pretty presentation of Sangiovese-driven aromas with small berries, underbrush, moist potting soil and blue flowers. All of these aromas are perfectly tied to the variety. In the mouth, Cerbaia's interpretation is lean and crisp with medium weight and a long, silky mouthfeel. It does feel thin on the mid-palate and tapers out to a medium or short finish. Fruit comes from a 4.5-hectare vineyard with Galestro-rich soils. Some 18,000 bottles were released in January 2020.