Penfolds Grange Bin 95 1994

Dense red-purple; the typically rich and powerful bouquet has layers of dark berry fruit and integrated and balanced oak. What makes it unusual is the distinct hint of chocolate, which appears again on the silkily powerful palate. Here there is an array of all of the fruit flavours one could possibly expect, but once again that touch of dark Swiss chocolate adding an intriguing note. The oak balance and integration is better than any five-year-old Grange I can remember, the tannins perfectly balanced into the bargain.

This wine, Australia's most famous, is literally black. Aroma of sweet charred American oak dominates, with associated vanilla. Underneath is pepper, tobacco, spice and blackberry; complex and beautiful. Tremendous extract, marvelously thick like fruit purée, enormous and bone dry. The finish lasts forever. A huge, effusive wine that needs 15 years to settle down. Shiraz and Cabernet Sauvignon.